is no Boxing Day in Cabo Verde, so on the 26th of December we had to work i.e. sail: to the island
of São Nicolao 86 miles westward.
People say that São
Nicolao is the most unspoilt island, but unfortunately we cannot check
this ourselves as we are unable to visit all of the 10 CV islands. Sal and Bõa Vista
are already quiet, but yes, on São Nicolao time and development of
tourism seem to have stopped. Chicken are on the loose on the streets,
older women smoke pipe; it all seems rather authentical.
Here in Tarrafal we could not leave our boat for two days
because there was a lot of wind
and it funneled over the mountains with speeds of 10 Bft. When the wind had
died out a bit, we left the boat at anchor (holding is excellent) en we hired
a pick up with a driver to travel around the island.
Nicolao is said to be the most beautiful island in the whole archipel. And
indeed the beauty almost makes you forget your painful bottom, as those
small benches in a pick up are quite uncomfortable and all roads are
cobbled with small stones.
São Nicolao is mountainous with its highest point at 1300 m; similar to Gran Canaria
and La Gomera. The comparision does not stop there as São Nicolao's
landscape is also very similar to these two Canary islands. The wild and
steep mountains PHOTO
on the highest peaks the woods with the mosses on the trees PHOTO
– only the flora is more tropical, although you still have to wear a
The villages are pure and
unspoilt. You don't see any hotels or apartment buildings; only
picturesque little farms PHOTO
with chicken running around, donkeys, pigs, dogs and cats and friendly
women go for water to the central water taps, of which every village has at
Drivers of pick ups and vans have to be careful, as a woman (why not a
man?!) might cross, carrying a water can on her head. PHOTO
In the smaller villages there is only one kind of shop: the mercearia (grocery store), which is
also a pub for the necessary glass of pontch
Pontch is the one and only drink here and contains rum, honey and lemon
On the 31st of December all women in Tarrafal walked around with huge curlers in their
hair; to prepare for the big new year's eve party. In Cabo Verde three
things are most important in life: sex, money and music. And after all this it was time
to leave the islands. For Suriname...