We haven't sailed for a year and suddenly we
seem to be far ahead of ourselves. Although we find ourselves at the
moment on Grenada, here is an other update about Tobago from
Charlotteville where the chicken walk in the streets and the i-shop is
not much more than a mini beach clubhouse.
Trinidad is worldwide the number two location (after Rio de Janeiro) to
celebrate Carnival and this is because the Trinidadese and Tobagonians are
real partymakers. They even make a swinging party out of a funeral. We
were invited on the evening before the burial of a 32-year old woman.
Cheerful clothing and exuberant music, dance and singing. People carried
bunches of papers with songtexts but this seemed to be hardly necessary
as the texts were more or less the same in every song : Jesus,
Saviour, etc. Also the music was in every song a variation on a theme,
but this allowed the less talented musicians to take part; the more the
Film Funeral Party (3.41 Mb)
To add to the festivities, the annual Tobago International Game
Fishing Tournament started at the same time. About thirty of those big
fishing yachts, type: the number of flours adds to the status (the top
is 4), equipped with a choice of fishing poles and fighting chairs,
gathered in Man O’War Bay. The prize for the biggest catch: a Suzuki
The brochure stated that anglers protect marine environment
through their sport. We wonder how they manage this while they burn up
tons of diesel oil and kill fish (however they claim proudly that they
release the small ones). But the big boys that are hauled in and are on
display, become property of the tournament committee, and we ask
ourselves: what happens to the fish afterwards? Fill all cold stores on the
island and sell them eventually so local fishermen are robbed from their
trading? It is a terrible delouse, such a huge animal of 569 lbs hanging
to a rope.
It would have been better if he had not taken a bite in the
bait. And so much better if they hadn't started such a hunt for sea wildlife as
it looks terribly sad.
Elephant hunting is also forbidden, or is it not?
With two colleague sailors we rented a car for
one day and drove around the island. The northcoast is less accessible than
the southcoast where the bus to Scarborough rides, so it was a lot of
zig-zagging along beautiful bays with pretty fishing villages. By the way
the croton seems to be favourite garden shrubs on Tobago.
The northeast side of Tobago, where we are, is a glaring contrast compared
with the southwest. Here guesthouses made room for resorts
and the real party is going on with crowded beaches and bunches of tourists
who look like they left the bbq a minute ago; roasted, that is. Here is not
much left of the unspoilt beauty of the eiland, although the sea is still
turquoise because of the white (coral)sand.
But we made a nice walk along the beach from Pigeon Point
to the pier of Bucco Reef
and without seeing a soul. Tourists apparently don't move from their beach
beds. And we experienced the ultimate Tobago culinary must that no one – according to The Rough Guide To The Caribbean -
should miss: Miss Esmie's crab & dumplings in curry sauce.
And finally our silverweddingbeachparty! Icy-cold Carib-bibeers for all
beach bums, rum and pinapple juice, tuna on the bbq, a delicious salad and
lots of “liming” to do. And Hollis (“Rasta”) made the happy lovebirds a cute birds nest
out of a coconut.