To give us some
and Nathalie invited us for a caipirinha.
Stéphanie is aa great chef, the drinks were accompanied by various
delicious snacks such as tacochips with guacemole and home-made
mini-pizza’s. A sweet initiative and delightfully executed.
But we drank the most of our caipirinha’s in Salvador on the boulevard,
where the salty water sprays over the terraces and we could see the
flashing bouys and the ships. A great spot, also because we loved to
gaze at the Brazilian boulevard-life i.e. seen in the perspective of the
body culture: the joggers running by.
It was also here that we were introduced to the moqueca, a typical Bahian
hotpot-dish of fish, shrimp and crab in a seasoned tomato/coconutmilkaus.
Served with rice, farofa (manioc flour sautéed in butter, they sprinkle
it over every dish) and a manioc mash which is considered as the
ultimate treat. Prepared with lots of dendê, a from Africa originating
palm oil which is hard to digest by some people. For example JW, so he
could test his experience as Brazilian bathroom specialist again in
Salvador. But we'll change the recipe a bit, to be able to serve the
dish in Surinam as well.
If you want to eat, anything is possible in Brazil. For €3 you eat in
(kilo)restaurant rice, spaghetti, feijoada and chicken or meat, but our
favourite place was the best churrascaría in town where they served the
most delicious of meats. Freshly barbecued and directly from the spit
cut on the table, extremely varied and as much as you want.
Shopping was a pleasure for P as Brazilian women are by far not the
slender Miss Brazils everyone thinks them to be, on the contrary. Obesitas
and diabetes are in Brazil health problems #1.
Caused by rice and especially the large quantities of sugar they take in
their coffe and in softdrinks and candies.
Brazilians snack all day continously and the women present themselves
without any shame in tight tops and bare bellies, even when they are
In Brazil the sifference
between rich and poor is much bigger than in Surinam. The town parts
where we went, are characterized by western wealth, good facilities and
an excellent infrastructure. But we didn't dare go into the favela’s:
the slums, stretching as far as the eye reaches.
After the mugging we really had had it with the city centre, so we took
the bus to the northern town part: Ribeira/Bonfim, where the small
fishing boats are. The heart of this district, which is built against a
steep hill, is the Igreja do Bonfim.
Beautiful, but really surprising because of its “casa dos milagres” (miracle
room), the ceiling crammed with wax models of limbs of parishioners
begging the enhor do Bonfim for cure.
To many hands ands feet notes are glued explaining the illness that has
to be cured. At first glance, all those arms and legs dangling in the
air seemed a bit sinister,
but the lacking of blood made us realize that this was not a chamber of
horrors in a horror movie. And then the performance has something very
Ribeira/Bonfim is absolutely not touristal. With its narrow streets it
looks like little Venice
and beautiful facades.
Actually we felt at ease, at last. The locals take lunch by the beach
with “pirão do
aipim com carne do sol” and we considered this worth a try
It turned out to be a manioc mash with dried meat prepared in the Bahian
way in a nice sauce and with vegetables. Delicious and almost for free.
In this neighbourhood we also found a non-touristical market, the Feira
de São Joaquim. An incredible mess
and a rummage sale, from vegetables to sculptures of Maria.
We did many outings. For example a boat trip in the Bahia
dos Santos including a visit to two islands, one of them Itaperíca. Itaperíca
has beautiful beaches but it is difficult to find a a place in the
shadow where NO commercial activities take place. But once find you
has many magnificent parks, of
which the biggest is the Parque de Pituaça. We hired bikes here and it felt
great to get a bit of exercise again during the 15
km ride around the park. We were lucky as there was no sun. A bit of rain,
yes, but what do you prefer when cycling?
An other park is the botanical garden, as in Belém actually a zoo, but with
lots more species. So we saw not only monkeys and caymen, but jaguars, a
lion, bears, zebra’s, camels and hippo's as well. But the funniest species
were the Brazilians, who had a day off (1 may). Bag of popcorn in one hand,
a soft drink in the other. Nice to look at from one of the 500 popcorn
How personal the approach of the ladies in La Villa Française is, appeared
once more upon our leaving. We said goodbye as friends and Stéphanie
prepared once more and especially for us her mousse maracuja as a breakfast.
Stéphanie had found us a cheap flight back (€150 pp),
only twice the bus tariff and for €75 we were obviously not prepared to have
a hard time: such a long bustrip including a tough night is not our
favourite way to spend a holiday. Although the buses are comfortable, they
stop frequently and people have to get in and out, so you don't get a lot of
sleep. It is actually even worse than 4-hours watches on a boat! So planes
and taxi’s became in Brazil more and more our favourite means of
By the way, taxidrivers are extremely correct and use a meter showing day
and night rates. The taxi chat is of course: where do we come from.
Allemanha? No, Holanda. “Ah! João Kroif!” Before we go for a next visit we
will study the subject of “futebol”.
Anyway. We again took a cab to the airport (to escape from possible
robbers), had a stop-over in Brasília and ended up in São Luís in the north.